By Jean-François Venne
In a market dominated by a few colossal multinationals, independent eyewear creators have several advantages. Their agility, unmatched by larger competitors, grants them significant control over their brand image and autonomy.
Giants like EssilorLuxottica, Safilo, and Kering Eyewear monopolize a vast portion of the optical and sunglasses market. These publicly traded companies pursue relentless growth, accountable to their shareholders every quarter. Their aggressive business models involve fierce competition for luxury brand licenses and frequent acquisitions.
Outside this business model, numerous lesser-known independent companies play a crucial role in the optical industry. Some have longstanding histories, such as Morel (1880), Moscot (1915), or Lafont (1923). The essence of these independent eyewear creator brands lies in offering frame designs distinct from the major players and forming business partnerships that cater well to independent distributors’ needs.
The Competition
Mehran Baghaie founded Spectacle Eyeworks in Vancouver in 1996. He recalls a time when independent creators were much rarer, especially at trade shows like Vision Expo or SILMO. “Now, independents are a force in the market,” he believes. “They represent real competition for multinationals. Increasingly, consumers don’t want to wear licensed brands, and independent opticians seek different products, making the market more interesting than 20 years ago.”
He adds that independents positively impact the market by offering original designs and a broader range of prices. “Personally, I always try to distinguish myself from other creators and offer original products,” he confides. “That’s one of the strengths of independents: bringing variety to the market.”
Bridging Technology and Fashion
David Duralde, Chief Creative Officer at OGI Eyewear, has been part of the independent eyewear industry for decades. Interestingly, his journey began in the restaurant business. “I worked for several years as the general manager of two restaurants owned by Gai Gherardi and Barbara McReynolds, the founders of l.a.Eyeworks,” he explains. “I was very attracted to their creative and innovative spirit and their desire to change the world.”
In 1992, he became the product director at l.a.Eyeworks, an avant- garde eyewear company founded in 1979. He also went back to university to study frame design, learning both the craft and the commercial side of the business. He later worked at Signature Eyewear, Kenmark Eyewear, Safilo, and OGI Eyewear, overseeing the creation of over 62 million frames throughout his career.
“The role of independents has always been to innovate and create original designs that renew consumer interest and get them to see eyewear differently,” says David Duralde.
He recalls that in the 1980s and 1990s, new equipment fueled creativity, particularly CNC robotic cutting machines, which l.a.Eyeworks was among the first to use, especially with acetate. Laser printing, lamination, and sprayed metal colors also emerged during this period. “It was a kind of renaissance sparked by the arrival of all these new technologies that designers could use to create bolder designs,” Duralde continues.
In the early 2000s, technological feats gave way to the emergence of luxury brands. What mattered suddenly was having the shape or color in fashion each season. Since around 2010, designers have sought to combine fashion aspects with technological possibilities. “Designers are once again looking to renew eyewear to interest a new generation of consumers,” Duralde notes.
Telling A Story
This approach can involve new technologies like 3D printing or using more sustainable materials to meet the ecological expectations of some consumers. “But what really matters, especially for independents, is the story the brand tells and the emotions it evokes,” says Nicolas Roseillier.
This independent designer founded the UN-TI-TLED agency in 2023, offering artistic creation and marketing strategy services. He is also the creator behind NOW by Vision Expo, which has awarded the best innovations in various eyewear categories since 2021. Roseillier was also the artistic director at Europa Eyewear (State, American Optical) for over five years, a role he previously held at De Rigo REM and MODO Eyewear.
Though he loved his 15 years creating licensed frames, he admits there’s a very interesting side to working as an independent designer. “Authenticity is one of the strengths of independent brands,” he says. “They can devote much attention to design, whereas large multinationals focus heavily on logos. They also retain much freedom to create a personal story around their brand and each collection, meeting significant customer expectations.”
This idea underpins his vision for NOW by Vision Expo. The event aims to focus on the frame itself as an object, beyond considerations of brands, company names, or logos, thereby placing design and designers at the forefront. This year, organizers created specific categories for independent frame and sunglass manufacturers.
Independent Eyewear Creators Adapt to the Market
For Roseillier, the main challenge for independents is not design per se but the market’s rapid and constant evolution. “In recent years, we’ve seen many changes in distribution, buying habits, and consumer preferences,” he notes, pointing to the rise of online shopping. Although physical stores remain significantly more popular, online eyewear sales are expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 9% by 2030, according to Allied Research Marketing.
Independent creator Mehran Baghaie admits that one of the biggest challenges is finding new customers. “Should we advertise like the multinationals at the risk of resembling them? How do we maintain our independent identity, even in our advertising choices?”
“I rely on a solid base of regular customers and don’t feel the need to go after new accounts aggressively. “I usually recruit new clients at trade shows and through word of mouth, but for those just starting with few clients, making their mark remains a challenge,” he explains.
Distributing Independent Eyewear Creations
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Distribution presents another challenge, especially due to consolidation resulting in larger optical chains, which tend to rely less on independent creators. These creators must cultivate relationships with independent eye care practitioners who seek to differentiate themselves from chains.
They must also be innovative and aware of customer expectations. For example, OGI Eyewear has adopted sustainability standards and seeks to reduce its carbon footprint. Its frame packaging is entirely biodegradable, and it sells a collection of sunglasses made from recycled materials. The company repurposes acetate scraps to create jewelry or accessories. “The optical industry has traditionally generated a lot of waste, and we want to help find solutions to make it more sustainable,” says David Duralde.
OGI Eyewear also contributes to developing 3D virtual try-on technologies, using Apple’s facial recognition software. The goal is to allow customers to try more models and colours without requiring large inventories.
“Independence grants an agility that allows for faster innovation,” believes Duralde. “This is not the strength of large multinationals, which tend to refine existing market innovations. Independents are the engine of innovation in the eyewear industry.”
