By Sarah Bureau, RO

Altina Schinasi, a visionary artist, filmmaker, and designer, revolutionized the world of fashion eyewear with her innovative designs and creative spirit. Born in New York City in 1907 to a Sephardic Jewish family that had emigrated from the Ottoman Empire, Schinasi’s background was rich with cultural influences that would later shape her unique approach to design.

The Birth of the Harlequin Frame

One day, in the 1930s, Altina was walking down a New York city street when she happened upon an Optician’s office.  In the window she noticed an image of a model wearing eyeglasses which she thought were truly ugly.  Something out of the “time of Benjamin Franklin”.  Her artistic mind couldn’t help but wonder why anyone would wear something so hideous and thought there must be a way to create eyewear that flattered the female face.  “Surely, there must be some way to design eyeglasses that could be attractive! What looks good on a face? What adds to a face? What could a woman wear on her face that would be romantic?” she pondered. 

Her inspiration came from the beautiful Harlequin masks worn during Carnival in Venice, Italy.  With her background as an artist and sculptor, she went to work to create the first iterations of what would become Schinasi’s most iconic contribution to eyewear fashion; the invention of the Harlequin frame, now commonly known as the “cat-eye” frame.  These frames featured upswept angles and an elegant, feminine silhouette that distinguished them from the round, utilitarian spectacles of the time.

Schinasi, however, struggled to find a manufacturer willing to produce her unconventional design.  Frame makers laughed at her invention, going so far as to tell her they would let her know when they wanted to make eyewear for the lunatic asylums. Unphased, her perseverance finally paid off when local optician Lugene agreed to create a prototype in exchange for temporary exclusivity on the designs.

The Harlequin frames became an instant sensation, embraced by Hollywood starlets and fashionable women across the globe. They were seen on the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe, cementing their status as a must-have fashion accessory. Schinasi’s frames were not just a fashion statement; they were a departure from the bland and uninspired designs that dominated the market. Her innovative approach combined functionality with high fashion, making eyewear a key element of personal style.

Designing with Purpose

Schinasi was not only driven by aesthetics but also by the desire to empower women through her designs. The Harlequin frame, with its bold and confident look, became a symbol of independence and self-expression for women in an era where such qualities were just beginning to gain societal acceptance. Schinasi’s frames were more than just accessories; they were statements of individuality and strength.

Beyond the Harlequin frame, Schinasi’s design philosophy was deeply rooted in her belief that fashion should be accessible and empowering. She often collaborated with other artists and designers, fostering a creative environment that encouraged innovation and experimentation. Her work set a precedent for future generations of eyewear designers, proving that glasses could be both functional and fashion-forward.

A Lasting Impact

The legacy of Altina Schinasi’s eyewear designs continues to influence fashion today. The cat-eye frame remains a timeless classic, reinvented and reinterpreted by countless designers over the decades. Schinasi’s work paved the way for innovative eyewear design. Her contributions to the industry have cemented her status as a pioneer and a true godmother of fashion eyewear.

Moreover, her influence extended beyond just the design of eyewear. Schinasi’s commitment to quality and attention to detail set new standards in the industry. Her approach to design was holistic, considering not only the aesthetic appeal of her frames but also their comfort and practicality.

Recognition and Awards

Throughout her career, Schinasi received numerous accolades for her contributions to design and the arts. In 1939, she was honored with a Lord & Taylor American Design Award for her Harlequin frame.

Schinasi’s achievements in other artistic fields further solidified her reputation as a multifaceted and innovative creator. Her documentary “George Grosz’ Interregnum” won the Golden Lion at the Venice Film Festival in 1960.  Her sculptures, often created from found objects and everyday materials, were celebrated for their whimsical and thought-provoking nature. Schinasi’s paintings, characterized by bold colours and dynamic compositions, reflected her vibrant personality and her deep appreciation for beauty in all its forms.

Inspiration for Future Generations

Altina Schinasi’s story is one of resilience, creativity, and breaking boundaries. Her innovative spirit and determination to challenge the status quo continue to inspire designers and artists around the world. Schinasi’s eyewear designs remind us that fashion can be a powerful medium for self-expression and empowerment.

Altina Schinasi’s contributions to the world of fashion eyewear are immeasurable. Her Harlequin frames revolutionized the industry and became a timeless symbol of style and sophistication. Schinasi’s legacy lives on through her designs, which continue to inspire and captivate fashion enthusiasts.  Her work remains a cornerstone of fashion eyewear design, embodying the perfect blend of form and function. Schinasi’s vision and creativity have left an indelible mark on the industry, ensuring that her influence will be felt for generations to come.

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