The Evolution of Artisanal Craftsmanship

By Sarah Bureau, RO

During the 18th century, hair combs were a staple accessory in women’s fashion, particularly among the European elite. These simple combs, made from bone, horn, and metal, were designed for practicality to support elaborate hairstyles. While they lacked the ornate stylings that would emerge in the 19th century, these early combs laid the foundation for artisanal skills that would later transition into the intricate craft of eyewear manufacturing.

Shifting Trends and Rising Popularity of Hair Combs

As fashion styles progressed from the subtle designs of the early 19th century (1800s – 1830s) into more ornate and elaborate trends in the mid-19th century (1840s -1860s) the styling of hair combs also shifted considerably. Women’s hairstyles became more voluminous and embellished, requiring hair accessories that both enhanced the aesthetic and offered structural support.

The hair combs of the mid-19th century were hand carved from materials such as tortoise shell, ivory, and horn and featured elaborate details such as floral motifs and intricate inlays. The use of luxury materials and the trend towards opulence was demonstrated by the styling of the hair combs created during this time. By the end of the 19th century (1870s-1900s), ornate hair combs reached the peak of their popularity, accessorizing the period’s complex hairdos and lavish clothing. Advances in technology allowed for even more detailed expressions in design, and at this time a new material, celluloid, was introduced in the production of hair combs. This new plastic could be created to mimic the appearance of natural materials such as horn and bone.

As the century turned (1900s-1930s), fashion trends shifted to the sleek, streamlined styles of the flapper era, with women wearing their hair short. This change, along with the move away from long, stylized hair, led to a significant decline in the popularity of hair combs.

Transferring Hair Comb Skills to Eyewear

As the popularity of hair combs declined, the industry that had thrived for 100 years faced a sudden downturn. However, the artisans, with their advanced technology and generational skills in hand carving comb materials, inlaying mother-of-pearl and metal, and hand polishing, found these techniques directly transferable to the art of making eyewear.

The high level of artistry, precision, and expertise in working with materials like bone, horn, and tortoise allowed these hair comb artisans to both enter and thrive in the eyewear market and is a perfect example of how traditional craftsmanship can evolve. The success these initial craftsmen had in transitioning their honed skills into frame making was an inspiration to fellow comb artisans who followed in their footsteps, diversifying and adapting to changing trends. This set a precedent for future generations of craftsmen and manufacturers and their legacy has continued to inspire modern frame makers.

From Hair Comb Making to Plastics Valley

The artisans in the town of Oyonnax, located in the Jura Mountains region of France, exemplify the transition from comb making to eyeglass manufacturing. Using their natural resources, this region was known for creating hair combs from wood and horn as early as the 18th century. As celluloid was introduced in 1860, the town of Oyonnax entered the world of plastics manufacturing, eventually becoming the hub of production for the new invention ‘acetate’ in the 1940s.

Lightweight, durable, flexible, and with a multitude of options for colour and design, this new plastic became the go-to material for eyeglass production, securing the town of Oyonnax as a prominent plastics manufacturing region that is often referred to as “Plastics Valley”. France’s largest acetate manufacturing producer Décoracet is located in Oyonnax. Décoracet originates from one of the oldest companies in Oyonnax, G. Convert SA, which has been producing plastics since its founding in 1830.

A Modern Hair Comb Legacy of Exquisite Craftsmanship

To this day, Oyonnax is a destination for eyeglass enthusiasts and many well-known eyeglass manufacturers hail from the Jura region of France, including Gouverneur Audigier, Julbo, and Morel which is the company behind brands like 1880, Koali, Öga, Lightec, and Nomad. While Oyonnax has become known mainly for its production of French eyewear, there are still some comb makers who thrive in the region, such as Veinière hair accessories which was founded by Elysée and Marie Veinière in 1892 and is to this day manufacturing and distributing hair accessories around the world. The production of combs and spectacles has made Oyonnax famous throughout the world and is now home to the “Museum of the Comb and the Plastics Industry”.

The transition from making ornamental hair combs to creating eyeglasses represents a natural evolution driven by overlapping skills, shared materials, and changing market demands. The craftsmanship involved in creating both art types demonstrated the versatility of artisans, who capitalized on their existing expertise to embrace new opportunities in the burgeoning field of eyewear.

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Sarah Bureau has been a licensed dispensing Optician in Niagara, Ontario for more than 20 years. She is the woman behind sbspecs, specializing in repairing and customizing eyewear for Opticians all across North America. Her love for restoring eyewear and modifying frames for unique fits is evident in the care she puts into each pair that crosses her workbench.

Sarah Bureau œuvre à titre d’opticienne autorisée à Niagara, en Ontario, depuis plus de 20 ans. Elle est propriétaire de sbspecs, une entreprise qui se spécialise dans la réparation et la personnalisation des lunettes pour les opticiens de partout en Amérique du Nord. Chaque paire de lunettes qui passe entre ses mains témoigne de son amour pour la restauration des lunettes et la modification des montures.